By Marc Bendall, Christchurch Jeweller
After decades as a jeweller in Christchurch, I’ve seen countless beautiful pieces come through my workshop—some lovingly maintained, others requiring extensive restoration that could have been avoided with proper care. I’d like to share my expertise on maintaining your precious jewellery so it remains as stunning as the day you first wore it.
Understanding Your Metals: What I’ve Learned Over the Years
In my workshop, I work with metals every day, and I can tell you that understanding their unique properties is the foundation of proper jewellery care.
Gold and Its Variations
Gold has been my specialty for years, and I’ve worked with every variation you can imagine. Pure gold is far too soft for everyday jewellery, which is why we create alloys by mixing it with other metals.
Yellow Gold remains timeless, and I always tell my clients that gentle care is key. I recommend cleaning with warm soapy water and a soft brush—never anything harsh that might scratch the surface. Remember, the higher the karat rating, the softer the gold becomes. That 18-karat piece needs more delicate handling than your 14-karat wedding band.
White Gold achieves its beautiful silvery appearance through rhodium plating, and this is where many people get confused. That plating wears away naturally—it’s not a defect, it’s simply how the metal behaves. I typically re-plate white gold pieces every 12-18 months for my regular clients. Between visits to my workshop, clean these pieces with mild dish soap and warm water, and always dry them thoroughly to prevent water spots.
Rose Gold gets its romantic colour from copper content, making it more durable than yellow gold, though it can tarnish in humid conditions. I recommend regular cleaning with a soft cloth and proper storage in anti-tarnish pouches—something I always provide to my clients when they collect their pieces.
Silver Care
Sterling silver requires attention, and I can’t stress this enough to my clients. Tarnishing happens naturally when silver reacts with sulphur in the air—it’s chemistry, not poor craftsmanship. I always provide anti-tarnish cloths with silver pieces, and I recommend storing them with chalk or silica gel packets to absorb moisture.
For cleaning, use specialised silver polish or create a gentle paste with baking soda and water. Avoid harsh chemicals—I’ve seen too many pieces damaged by well-meaning owners using the wrong products.
Platinum Maintenance
Platinum is a favourite for engagement rings because of its durability and hypoallergenic properties. It develops a natural patina over time, and many clients worry about this, but I tell them it’s actually protecting the metal. If you prefer the original bright finish, I can professionally polish it back to its original lustre. Between visits, mild soap and warm water will keep your platinum pieces looking their best.
Diamond Care: Preserving Maximum Brilliance
Diamonds might be the hardest natural substance, but they’re also oil magnets—something I explain to every client who purchases a diamond piece from me. The secret to maintaining that incredible fire and brilliance is understanding this simple fact.
I always advise removing diamond rings before applying cosmetics, lotions, or perfumes. These substances create a film that dramatically reduces light reflection. When you clean at home, use warm water and mild dish soap, letting the piece soak for 10-15 minutes before gently scrubbing with a soft toothbrush.
Pay special attention to the area behind the diamond—that’s where oils and debris love to hide. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a lint-free cloth. For engagement rings and pieces worn daily, I recommend professional cleaning every six months. In my workshop, I use ultrasonic cleaners and steam cleaning systems that achieve results impossible at home.
Gemstone-Specific Care: Each Stone Has Its Personality
After years of working with gemstones, I’ve learned that each type has its own personality and care requirements.
Hard Gemstones (Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds)
Sapphires and rubies are both corundum, ranking 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, making them quite durable. I clean these regularly with warm soapy water and a soft brush, though I avoid ultrasonic cleaners if the stones show visible inclusions or fractures—something I always check during my inspections.
Emeralds are stunning but require special attention. They have natural inclusions and are often oil-treated to enhance their appearance. I clean emerald pieces with room temperature water and mild soap, avoiding temperature extremes and ultrasonic methods that could damage the stone or remove beneficial oils.
Softer Gemstones (Opals, Pearls, Turquoise)
Opals contain water and can crack with temperature changes—I’ve seen this happen too many times. I always advise storing opal jewellery in slightly humid conditions and keeping pieces away from direct sunlight or heat sources. Clean only with a damp cloth, never soak them in water.
Pearls hold a special place in my heart as they’re organic gems that are particularly susceptible to acid damage. I tell all my clients to wipe pearls with a soft, damp cloth after each wearing to remove body oils and perfumes. Store pearl necklaces flat to prevent stretching the silk thread, and if you wear them regularly, bring them to my workshop annually for restringing.
Treated and Enhanced Stones
Many gemstones undergo treatments to enhance their appearance, and these treatments affect how I care for them in my workshop. Heat-treated stones generally maintain their stability, while fracture-filled or dyed stones require much gentler methods. When clients bring me pieces and aren’t sure about treatment history, I can assess them and provide specific care guidance.
Ring-Specific Maintenance: They Take the Most Abuse
Rings endure more wear than any other jewellery, and I see this daily in my workshop. They require extra attention to maintain their condition and security.
Engagement Ring Care
Engagement rings are my bread and butter, and I’ve learned that they collect oils and debris from daily activities like nothing else. I always tell my clients to remove rings before cleaning, gardening, exercising, or working with rough materials. The setting needs regular inspection for loose prongs or wear—constant pressure and movement gradually weaken metal components.
I recommend a weekly cleaning routine using the soaking method I described for diamonds, paying special attention to the underside where debris accumulates. I also suggest investing in a jewellery cleaning brush specifically designed for engagement rings—these tools reach areas that standard brushes cannot access effectively.
Multi-Stone Rings
When I work on rings featuring multiple gemstones, I must consider each stone’s specific needs. I always use the gentlest cleaning method appropriate for the most delicate stone in the piece. This conservative approach ensures no damage occurs to any component—something I’ve learned from experience.